Vaske? Hvorfor?

Det er veldig viktig at acetonen du bruker er tørr, ellers blir produktet ditt svakere av vasken.

Aceton kan tørkes med msg04. Kjøp deg Epsom salt på en helsekostbutikk, stek denne i ovnen på 100 grader i rundt en times tid. Pulveriser saltet å kast det oppi acetonen. Da trekker den til seg det vannet som eventuelt måtte være oppi der. Både aceton og kokain er veldig hygroskopiske stoffer, så vann er en skikkelig no no!

Det skal ikke mye vann til før en sånn vask stikker av med store deler kokain, da virker hele vaskinga mot sin hensikt.
Både amfetamin og kokain er som regel blandet ut med ting som ikke løser seg opp i aceton, men det hender jo. Jeg vil ikke anbefale at man vasker det med mindre man har større mengder(til eget bruk).

Noen som vet om diethyl ether er lov å importere til Norge?

Preparation of Ether+Heptane from Starting Fluid without Distillation

I was going to write this post with a gigantic tweaker rant about how I discovered this solution on accident, but in my current state of sleep deprivation, it’s clear to me that such a wildly excessive narrative on my entire life story until the moment I discovered how to separate the valuable NP solvents from starting fluid without distillation was probably just unnecessary and mostly inspired by the fact that I was *fucked up* on really high quality crystal meth as a result of this very procedure.

You will need:
1. Engine starting fluid (the more ether, the better)
2. Acetone
3. Isopropanol (optional)
4. Distilled water
5. Numerous glass droppers
6. A fuck ton of glass jars/vessels consistent in size with the amount of ether you intend to prepare
7. Some kind of stabilizer (recommended). Butyl hydroxyl Toluene (BHT), Potassium hydroxide etc.

Okay.

1 can of starting fluid was discharged into a glass vessel with sufficient depth to avoid excessive overspray. It is possible to freeze the can, puncture a hole, discharge the co2 aerosol slowly and then puncture a second hole and pour the contents out and may give a higher yield per can, but this is not 100% necessary and I have never used this trick.

To this vessel was added an equal volume (exact ratio not required) of distilled water and the layers were allowed to separate.

The materials section of this writeup does not specify the need for anhydrous solvents, because bees will be adding them to a vessel containing water anyway. It is the author of this writeup’s recommendation to always use anhydrous and/or salted out solvents anyway, but for this, it is not critical.

This technique will be exploiting an interesting characteristic of acetone. Acetone is miscible with or soluble in both diethyl ether *and* water, and yet these two materials will be separated by visually distinct phases.

What seems to occur, is that, when acetone is added to the vessel, at least some quantity of that acetone cannot decide whether it wants to go with the ether or the water, and as a result, it will form a middle layer between these two phases.

As it turns out, many of these upper cylinder lubricants which — traditionally — we have targeted with distillations, appear to be more soluble in acetone than the ether they come with.

Upon formation of this middle layer (which will appear cloudy) the non polar phase is taken up using a glass dropper and put into a fresh vessel with distilled water. The process can and should be repeated a great number of times until the current vessel no longer manifests a cloudy, oily, impurity laden appearance. After this, it would be helpful to spend meticulous time and effort carefully aiming the dropper into the remaining thin lubricant layer atop each phase in the vessel, and siphoning these carefully. Successful aim will be indicated by the obvious appearance of viscous, oily bubbles being taken up by the dropper.

After this process is repeated as many times as necessary, the final collection vessel has its aqueous layer separated and is treated with a desiccant to remove residual water before being used as a medium in which to protonate amines.

If, after this, a bee decides to opt for distillation anyway, this should ease the process massively, by removing most or all of those lubricants, which, in my experience, seem to come over with distillation anyway. And separation of the Heptane content will likely require distillation, if ether alone is necessary for one’s needs.

It is also recommended to stabilize this ether(+heptane) using a commercially available stabilizer such as BHT or Potassium Hydroxide if it will be kept for future storage.

Hm, hvordan kan ren aceton få vann i seg? Kan det unngås ved å minimere hvor lenge korken er av feks? Aldri opplevd at en vask har gått skeis pga vann, alltid endt opp med et (subjektivt, ikke lab testet) bedre produkt.

Lurt å lukke beholderen så fort som mulig, ja. Teknisk sett er det vel umulig å ha en 100% vannfri aceton, siden den er hygroskopisk (suger til seg vann fra luft)

Ser ingen grunn til at det skal være ulovlig når man kan kjøpe startgass som er mer eller mindre rein diethyl ether. Bestill i vei, alternativt kan du bruke startgass som utgangspunkt.

Si man er uheldig og mister mye på grunn av vann, vil den totale mengden pulver bli mindre eller bare mindre potent?

Som en regel har jeg brukt aceton fra apoteket, det må vel være det nærmeste man kommer 100%.

God info, men jeg vil legge til at man får helt tørr aceton av å tilsette Msg04, magnesium sulfat med andre ord. Man må bare sørge for at magnesiumen er skikkelig tørr først(kan stekes i ovnen). Tørr aceton kalles gjerne anhydrous aceton.